Off Road Racing Truck Song

With no battery, your car simply is not functional.  One of the most inconvenient things in life is when your car battery suddenly dies unexpectedly!

But the great news is… there are several ways to know if your vehicle battery is on the verge of dying and has to be replaced.   In this guide we will go over 7 signs your car battery is going to die and needs to be replaced or reconditioned.

Before we get started discussing these 7 critical signs, it’s important to remember that when experiencing problems with your car battery, be sure to check the battery connections and wires first because occasionally a faulty connection can appear to be a bigger problem.

1) Slow Cranking – When turning the key, if your vehicle turns over for longer than normal or takes a while to”catch,” it often is because the battery charge is low.  While the starter can be the culprit, the majority of the time the battery is to blame.  If this is happening frequently, it’s a fantastic sign your car battery is going bad and it could be time to replace your battery or recondition it.

2) Check Engine Light/Battery Warning Light – The check engine light is always a great sign of something off with your vehicle.  The battery power being feeble will trip the check engine light.  If your check engine light is on, make certain to check the battery power level.   This will only light up if there is an issue with the battery.

3) Age – A car battery lifespan, in ideal conditions, is about five decades.   If your battery is coming up on the five to six year mark it is time to start looking for a replacement or recondition it to give it new life.

4) Electrical Component Issues –  One sure indication your battery is starting to fade is if electric components are fighting to operate (such as lighting, windshield wipers, power locks, and windows).

5) Swollen Battery Case – If you look under the hood and your battery case looks swollen, bloated, or malformed; it’s a sign that temperature has influenced the chemical elements of the battery, shortening the lifespan.

6) Smell –  If you smell sulfur or rotten eggs under your hood, then this is frequently a symptom of leaking battery acid. This may damage other engine parts if not addressed quickly.  If you become aware of this, you may either bring your own battery into a store and have them look at it or you may use our reconditioning steps and do it yourself.

7) Multiple recoil begins Needed – if you are needing to jump your battery to get your car started more than three times each week, it is time to replace the battery or recondition it.  Excessive jumping can also damage other systems, so it’s best to have the battery replaced or fix the battery yourself.

If your vehicle battery is showing any of these 7 signs, know that your battery should be replaced or reconditioned before your car no longer runs.


Off-road Racing Truck Song

Can You Use Any Charger With Any Cell Phone, Laptop, Camera, or Tablet? 

Every cell phone, laptop, and tablet seem to come with their own charger.  If you’re like me, you have probably compiled a number of chargers over the years.  So the question becomes: is it safe to use a charger with your phone, notebook, camera, or tablet computer that is not the original manufacturer’s charger that came with the device?

Types of Chargers

In this article, we will concentrate on three types of chargers: laptop chargers, micro USB chargers (these are used with telephones, tablet computers, and cameras), and Apple Lightning Connectors.  While some devices have chargers with a slightly different head or charging cable, these are the most common.

Laptop chargers are fairly unique to the device they come with.  However, there can be some generic chargers which boast the ability to be interchanged between notebooks.  This always requires changing of the charger”head” and may not be the optimal charging amperage or voltage to your device.

Micro USBs are designed to be interchangeable, and are standard in most smartphones, Android devices, and tablets.  Micro USB chargers typically have the exact same voltage, but may draw various amps.  I will explain this further later and how to know whether the charger is safe to use (based on its recorded amps and voltage).

For older devices using a 30-pin charge interface, a connector can be used to control the Lightning Connector.

In order for a charger to be used on a different device, it’s essential that the plug  of the charger (the”head”) fit snugly to the charging port of the device.  Micro USBs are the same across the board as far as charging heads, whilst notebook chargers are often specific to both make and model.  However, the plug fitting securely is only 1 part of the equation.

Determined by the power brick of the charger you will find a label with the charger’s voltage (V) and amperage (A).  For other types of chargers, like a smartphone charger, this information is usually found at the base of the charger, in which it would meet the wall.  For the device you’re attempting to charge, the voltage and amperage required will be found on the battery that came with the device or on the company’s website.

Voltage is how much power the charger will draw in the device, or just how much is being”pushed” into the apparatus by the charger.  A phone will usually pull up to around 5V, while a notebook can pull up to 25V.  A charger must equal the voltage required by the device. 

Amperage is how fast power is”pulled” to the device, or how much electricity is used by the device.  The amount of volts won’t ever change, but the quantity of amps that the system pulls may change depending on how hard the device is working.  The number that you locate on the battery that came with your device are the maximum amount of amps which may be pulled from the device.  The amount found on the charger is how many amps can be pulled simultaneously. If a unit is paired with a charger which can’t support the amp necessity, it may burn out the power source and kill the device.

So if you have a modern USB device (smart phone, tablet, or camera) you can plug into a high-amperage USB port and enjoy quicker charging (so long as the voltage is equivalent ).  *Website Note: if you have an older device, it might not work with USB ports that use the newest Battery Charging Specification.

If The Micro USB  Charger’s Voltage Is Not 5v…

Some devices may have their voltage recorded with a plus/minus on it like this: 5v +- 5%.  If this is true, you may use a charger rated at 4.75 to 5.25v because that score is telling you is that the device can take 5v minus 5% of 5v = 4.75 volts  OR  5v and 5 percent of 5v = 5.25 volts. 

An interesting point to note is chargers provide a higher voltage than the batteries they charge.  That is pretty much how they work.  There has to be a voltage differential to generate the necessary current flow in the correct direction to charge the battery.  If you look at your vehicle, it’s a 12V battery, but typical alternators provide 13.8 to 14.4V charging voltage to the battery.

The problem with knockoffs, particularly cheap knockoffs, is that they often don’t support the energy requirements of the apparatus, or are not built to keep a steady flow safely.  Overall, it’s best to stick with the charger designed for the device you are using.

Now You Know How To Safely & Effectively Swap Chargers

I hope this article was able to assist you.  Now you know how to safely and efficiently use a charger that did not include your smart phone, laptop, camera, tablet, or other apparatus.  Be certain you follow what we said and you should be good to go!